Some ski resorts announce themselves loudly. Courmayeur doesn’t need to. Tucked elegantly on the Italian side of Mont Blanc, just beyond the tunnel from Chamonix, it has a self-assured calm that immediately sets it apart. This is a place that knows exactly what it is: sophisticated but not showy, deeply Italian, and utterly authentic. For those in the know, Courmayeur isn’t a second choice to its famous French neighbour – it’s the better-kept secret.
The skiing here is one of the Alps’ most pleasant surprises. Spread across wide-open mountain faces, gentle bowls and beautiful tree-lined runs, the terrain feels expansive and unrushed. Beginners find confidence on forgiving slopes, while more advanced skiers revel in the space, scenery and variety. The views are constant and breathtaking: Mont Blanc dominates the skyline, reminding you at every turn that you’re skiing in one of Europe’s most dramatic settings. Even the lift rides feel special, gliding quietly above forests and valleys with panoramic vistas unfolding in every direction.
One of Courmayeur’s great luxuries is how easy everything feels. There are no intimidating crowds, no frantic queues, no sense of fighting for your turns. Ski days flow naturally from run to run, lift to lift. When the sun is shining, and it often is, heading over to La Thuile is a must. The snow quality is excellent, the exposure famously sunny, and the connection over to La Rosière in France adds an extra sense of adventure. For an energy boost stop at Masion Carrel for lunch and enjoy a heart bowl of bleu cheese gnocchi with caremilised apples.
Then there’s lunch. In Courmayeur, mountain dining isn’t something you squeeze in between runs, it’s something you look forward to all morning. La Chaumière is legendary for good reason: incredible food, warm hospitality, and views so stunning they almost distract from what’s on the plate. Christiania, perched high on the slopes, is effortlessly chic, known for long, sun-soaked lunches and impeccably baked, wood-fired pizzas. For something more intimate and deeply alpine, Maison Vielle is a must visit with its cosy interiors and exceptional local dishes. Chiecco is an unbeatable spot for a warm and delicious lunch break.
Back in town, Courmayeur continues to charm. It’s a place that feels polished yet lived-in, where local life and visitors coexist seamlessly. Boutique shops sit alongside understated luxury brands, and evenings are relaxed rather than performative.
Where you stay matters here, and Hotel Bouton d’Or embodies everything Courmayeur does best. Family-run, warm and deeply personal, it feels less like a hotel and more like being welcomed into someone’s home. The alpine-style rooms are cosy and comforting, the spa – with sauna and steam room – is perfect after a day on the slopes, and the location couldn’t be better: just steps from the town, yet wonderfully peaceful. The welcome is genuinely heartfelt, and nothing is ever too much trouble. Breakfast alone is reason to return. Everything homemade by the owner, Andreas, whose omelettes and cakes have achieved near-legendary status. All their products are locally sourced and it’s widely agreed to be the best breakfast in Courmayeur.
Dining in the evenings is just as rewarding. Pizzeria du Tunnel is perfect for an easy, relaxed meal – casual, comforting and reliably delicious. Le Boite is another local favourite, ideal for unfussy, well-cooked food in a friendly atmosphere. For something a little more special, Aria delivers beautifully: refined dishes served in a gorgeous wooden alpine interior that feels elegant without ever tipping into formality. The trenette pasta with pistachio pesto and mullet bottarga was a menu highlight along with the truffle ricotta ravioli.
Even on non-ski days, Courmayeur offers unforgettable experiences. The Mont Blanc Skyway is unmissable. Rising effortlessly to the high alpine, the cable car delivers jaw-dropping, 360-degree views of the surrounding peaks. Standing above the glaciers, face to face with Mont Blanc and its dramatic companions, is genuinely humbling. It adds another layer to Courmayeur’s appeal: this isn’t just a ski destination; it’s a place to properly connect with the mountains.
Ultimateley, what makes Courmayeur so special is its balance. It has world-class scenery without ego, exceptional skiing without stress, and food that reminds you you’re in Italy. It’s sophisticated but warm, stylish but sincere.
Courmayeur doesn’t try to impress you – it simply is what it is; and that quiet confidence is exactly what makes it unforgettable.
